You’d be forgiven for thinking the streets of Havana run with rum. Find it served neat or in icy cocktails in the city’s growing, quirky bars, hotel lobbies, or local cantinas that wrap round corners in the old city. In stores buy it by the bottle or in juice-like cartons, Planchao, favoured by the locals to swig on when partying or hanging out on the city’s oceanfront, the Malecón.
Havana’s bars have a long and illustrious history. When Prohibition shuttered the saloons and inns of the USA between 1920 and 1933, thousands of Americans flocked to their island neighbour to drink cocktails in the Cuban capital’s bustling bars. Sloppy Joe’s opened in 1918, just a short amble away from thirsty customers at the Moorish-influenced Hotel Sevilla. Sloppy Joe’s was very popular with American GIs who would flock to the bar for regular drinking sessions. In the 40s, barflies at La Bodeguita del Medio spilled out onto the street with their mojitos in the shadow of the cathedral. And El Floridita, the drinking hole favoured by American writer Ernest Hemingway, started shaking cocktails for clientele as far back as the early 1900s. Hemingway’s record of 16 Papa Doble in one sitting might be tricky. But with a couple of days bar hopping about the city, you’ll definitely adopt the Hemingway swagger.
The hot, tight, balconied streets of Old Havana are blooming with traditional and newly opened bars. On the edge of La Habana Vieja, start with the ancient before embracing the new. The doors of El Floridita open at midday. Begin your afternoon with its de rigueur daiquiri at the long mahogany bar in the company of live music. Across the road, the Constante Bar at the Gran Hotel Manzana Kempinski is dazzling. Sit amid the luxe, painted foliage of its beautiful bar and order one of its daiquiris, all listed in its menu that pays homage to Constantino Ribalaigua Vert, who perfected the creation of the daiquiri at El Floridita.
Close by on Calle O’Reilly is popular Sibarita, a rooftop bar with a Tiki vibe serving Tiki drinks. On the alfresco rooftop of mega popular El del Frente on Calle O’Reilly, bartenders create Cuban cocktails that will slip down a treat. Warning! They’re all served with double measures! My votes are the mojito, piña colada and the superlative canchánchara, a traditional Cuban cocktail pimped up and perfected here. At tiny Jíbaro, deep in the sunny streets of southern Old Havana, find craft cocktails as well as a top list of mocktails.
Sibarita
Down in the worn streets of Centro Habana, climb the marble stairs to the rooftop of well-known restaurant-bar La Guarida. Under a starry night sky order a neat Havana Club Selección de Maestros. Close by is Michifú. Bag a seat in its leafy patio and order the very moreish passionfruit mojito. For beer, cocktails, and live music, that changes up daily – including jazz on Mondays, DJs, Cuban and alternative music, head to funky Malecón 663 on the sea front, a little private boutique hotel owned by tastemakers Orlandito Mengual, conga player for hit timba band Charanga Habanera, and his wife Sandra.
Malecón 663
In the leafy avenues and broad streets of el Vedado, a neighbourhood, of theatres, cinemas, and upmarket restaurants, you’ll find a lovely mix of bars to suit your mood. For outstanding city views, head to Bar La Torre on top of the Focsa Building, a 1950s super structure of apartments, and one of the tallest in the city. For chilled vibes and expert drinks head to living-room-cum-bar Café Madrigal. To capture the zeitgeist in Havana, make your way to the art-decorated terrace of El Cocinero, crafted from the shell of an old peanut oil factory. Continue partying next door with live music and drinks at entertainment venue Fábrica de Arte Cubano.
By now you’ll know you’ll never go thirsty in Havana. The Cuban night is long and there’s plenty of time to sip and sample your way through the city’s bars. In many of these places, make sure to hit up the mixologist with an order of their craft cocktails as well as sipping traditional Cuban drinks. ¡Salud!
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